Holly, Lion and I arrived in Hawaii just a week after the completion of the 12th annual Hurley BL’s Blast Off presented by Beecraft. It was another incredible event and a pretty full on year jam-packed with adventures, great waves and good vibes. We were on the fly and it was really busy at times, especially after I decided to jump in with the WSL commentary. So, it’s great to be back in Hawaii.
I came across this shot by my good mate Martin Sanchez (@martin.sanchez_photos) from Sunset Beach last year on a good winter swell.
There had been some very strong rains and flooding of all the river mouths and the water ended up being a rich brown colour for a couple weeks. People were not surfing for a couple of really good reasons, the health implications of farming by-products washing downstream, septics overflowing etc… you get the picture. The result was a very uncrowded line up, quite rare for a swell on the North Shore of Oahu.
I lasted the first three days out of the water and then I just had to surf. The next week saw uncrowded lineups all day every day, and several of them where I was the only guy out. On this day, I had had so many good waves that as I was dropping in and I literally burst into laughter and gave myself a hug. I dropped down the face in a moment of pure joy.
I’m definitely feeling that joy now and am so stoked to be back. We left in March and have been on a whirlwind ever since. So now it’s time to slow it down and live in this beautiful place with the family, and wait for the winter swells to arrive. Thank you universe, and martin.sanchez_photos.